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三、可悲可叹的中世纪食谱

谈完了居住条件,接下来就该谈谈饮食了。
首先必须承认的是,中世纪的欧洲人已经发明了餐具,总算不用像古埃及人一样直接用手指吃饭了,但现代人依然会感到难以接受——酒杯镶嵌了宝石做得很华丽,但却要一桌人轮流共用,你必须在饮酒的时候跟别人分享口水;汤勺也是两个人或几个人共用的,最好不要直接把勺子凑到嘴边去喝,而是舀到自己的碗里;餐叉是拜占庭帝国的发明,要到十字军东征之后才被带回西欧,在此之前的欧洲人,还是只能像古埃及人一样用手指撕肉条;当然,你也可以用餐刀割牛排和面包,然后代替叉子直接塞入嘴里,但问题是一把餐刀要数人共用,只有地位很高的人才能独享一把餐刀。
当然,上述这些陋习都是细枝末节,身为贵族领主,你完全可以为自己打造一副专用的餐具。但是,在看到桌上放着的中世纪欧洲经典饭菜之后,你绝对会消减掉绝大部分的食欲。
就现代东方人的观点来看,中世纪欧洲人吃水果的方法实在是很奇怪:把苹果和梨放到火上烤,把李子放进锅里炖,还要加盐撒胡椒……而直接生吃水果,却被看成是下等人的做法。
——中世纪的欧洲医学界普遍认为,一切水果都是凉性食物,若要吃的话,就应该以热的方法烹调,或者加入热性的香料(例如胡椒之类)……真是不科学!
相反,对于大部分蔬菜,例如胡萝卜、芜菁、圆白菜、卷心菜等等,中世纪的欧洲人倒是习惯于生吃,甚至就连刺激性口味的洋葱也是如此——当然,也有浸泡在肉汁里的烤洋葱,不过那个就属于高级菜了。
——煮熟的水果和生吃的蔬菜……感觉上似乎跟中国人的习惯恰好相反,肯定会导致肠胃不适。
不过上述这些问题还不算最要命的,中国人也不是不能吃蔬菜色拉,至于煮熟加盐的水果不合口味,也只要从食谱中剔除这些菜就行了。但光是作为主食的面包,就能让人觉得无处下嘴——中世纪欧洲人吃的面包,跟我们现代人那种发酵过还加入白糖奶油的松软面包根本不是一回事,而是近似于压缩饼干的一种无酵饼,又干又硬又磕牙……而古埃及人的面包,虽然通常也没加奶油,但一般倒是发酵过了。
当时,就算是贵族领主,在日常生活之中,也都吃平均重量4.5㎏/10磅的长条形黑面包。
典型的中世纪黑面包,一般是用小麦粉混杂大量的麸皮烤制而成——这种做法在中世纪已经算是精品黑面包了。更有一些偷工减料的黑心面包师,居然经常故意在黑面包中掺加木屑、小石头之类的杂物,比埃及人掺入面包的砂子更能磨损牙齿,也更可恶——后者好歹是被动受罪,前者根本就是主动犯罪啊!!!
这种中世纪黑面包的天下闻名之处,就是在于可以当武器使用——中世纪的编年史上,多次记录了没出息的笨盗贼潜入穷苦农民家里盗窃,但却不幸殒命于家庭主妇的黑面包之下的囧事;而当中世纪的家庭矛盾发生时,更有无数男子汉死于悍妇的黑面包攻击……至于这东西的味道,还是请大家自行想象。
——在日本的欧洲中世纪背景轻小说《狼与辛香料》之中,那位男主角旅行商人罗伦斯,之所以在有条件的时候,都不愿意直接啃黑面包,而是要把黑面包掰碎了煮稀粥,就是因为这东西实在是太硬了。
白面包和黑面包之间最大的区别,就在于它在制作时需要耗费很多时间和努力去筛除麸皮,中世纪的
天主教会把经过发酵制成的松软白面包称作“潘德美茵”,意为精制、神圣的面包。而中世纪的白面包体积也普遍比较小,每只通常都不够正常人吃一顿,大概跟现代的“早餐包”差不多。
最初,白面包是教会神职人员独享的专利,只能在领圣餐的仪式上使用,但很快就被人突破了限制,成为了中世纪富裕家庭们招待宾客的上等伙食。
不过,在中世纪贵族们日常用餐的时候,白面包和黑面包之间往往并没有非常明确的分界线——正常情况之下,贵族和富人的厨房里都不会直接存放大量面包,而是储存粗面粉,或者说混合了大量麸皮的小麦粉。到了吃饭的时候,再把粗面粉烤成面包。
如果要招待客人或者庆祝什么喜事,那么就会吩咐厨师和侍女们把粗面粉筛一筛。招待的客人越尊贵,粗面粉里的麸皮就要筛得越干净,烤出来的面包自然就会越白越精细,但花费的功夫同样也就越多。
所以,黑面包和白面包完全可以用同一袋面粉烤出来,区别只在于人工。而贵族骑士们平时吃的面包,其实是介于白面包和黑面包之间——最富裕的人家可以养几个仆人,从早到晚专门筛面粉。而在不那么富裕的家庭,为了减轻仆人的工作量,避免把他们累倒,同时也是为了避免浪费同样能充饥的麸皮,只好把筛面粉的次数减少一些……至于最后烤出来的面包到底算是黑的还是白的,就只能仁者见仁智者见智了。
此外,在中世纪的欧洲,还有一种用精面粉加入鸡蛋、牛奶、蜂蜜和香草,并且用啤酒酵母来代替普通的发面,经过精心发酵之后烘烤制成的“皇后面包”(也可以翻译为女王面包)。这种小圆形白面包的口味,基本跟现代的高档奶油面包差不多,可能还要更好一些,而且使用的材料绝对是绿色健康无污染——但这玩意儿已经是连国王也不能顿顿都当主食吃的超高级奢侈品了!
根据中世纪的某部史诗记载,有位国王在某次战役胜利之后,向全军赏赐了许多烤肉和葡萄酒,大家都习以为常。然后他又赏给最勇敢的士兵们每人一块“皇后面包”,却被其他人羡慕得要死……
不管那些混合了木屑与碎石的中世纪黑面包有多么的嗑牙和伤喉咙,它们仍然是中世纪欧洲下层平民眼里的上等美食,因为他们的饭碗里经常连面包都没有——烤面包要烧很多柴,烘焙的工艺也很麻烦。
所以穷人们干脆就直接拿一些粗加工的麦粉(那东西虽然是麦子磨的,但是怎么看都算不上面粉)放到碗里,加点热水调成麦糊,然后天天就吃这种麦糊过日子。如果有条件搞到一些野菜、咸鱼和肉类的话,也是把这些东西统统都倒进锅子里和麦糊一起炖煮……总之看上去很恶心,类似于我们中国人用来喂猪的东西。
——总的来说,中世纪欧洲庄园里的农奴们,一般吃得比三千年前尼罗河畔的古埃及农民还差。
除了黑面包和白面包之外,中世纪末期的意大利人偶尔也会吃面条(意大利通心粉),但这玩意儿更是绝对的贵族食品,价钱比白面包还要贵——在水力磨坊普及以前,把麦子加工成做面条用的细面粉真是太费劲了。
而且,现代意义上的意大利面,最初是在阿拉伯人占领下的西西里岛诞生,直到13~14世纪才推广到了整个意大利,至于传播到欧洲的其它地方,则已经是文艺复兴之后的事情了。
所以,中世纪的绝大部分欧洲人,恐怕都没有机会品尝到意大利面的美味。
说完了蔬果和主食,接下来就该说说鱼肉类的荤菜了。中世纪的欧洲应该算是半农半牧,而且土地空旷,野生动物很多,所以鱼类和肉类的价格较低,有时候鱼的价格比等重的黑面包还要便宜。
但中世纪的欧洲人没有冷藏条件,即使是贵族领主也没法顿顿吃鲜鱼鲜肉——古代中国人的城市很多,消费力强,每天在市集里总有现宰的生猪出售。但中世纪的欧洲却是人烟稀少,一座中等城堡里顶多也就五六十个人,每天宰一头猪或者一只羊可就太浪费了。


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